BODA BODA - where you can catch a ride on the back of a bicycle
PIKI PIKI - riding on the back of the motorcycle (not shown)
TUK TUK
MATATU
For the majority of our trips, we travelled by tuk tuk. We had 3 wonderful guys - Sammie, Steve, and Joshua - who were our drivers all week. By the end, they were also dear friends. Tuk tuks typically hold 3 passengers - but we were the masters of fitting more. More often than not, we had 4 in the seat, 2 kids in the 'boot' (aka trunk) and 1 guy riding up with the driver. These tuk tuks are roughly the size of a golf cart. They make for a pretty bumpy road - but they are reliable transportation.
I have only ridden in a matatu once - and I hope I never have to again.
The night after the movie, we were using all 3 of our tuk tuks and our 1 matatu to move 70 people to 2 different locations. After several runs, it was the last matatu ride. Before we can board the minivan, the older guys tell us they have to move the goat. Allison tells them to put the goat as far back as possible and keep the white people as far from the live goat as possible. They agree. So, they pull the live goat out of the back seat and put him in the back of the minivan. At that point, I'm already a bit weirded out - but I'm trying to remain flexible.
The kids start loading into the matatu. I was in charge of checking names off the list to assure that we didn't leave anyone at the movie theatre. I thought it would be easier if I got in the back and counted kids as they got in. HORRIBLE idea!!
You see, when people fill a matatu, they FILL a matatu! There were only 3 girls in the bus when I got in ... and then 3 more ... and still we needed room, so I moved to have one of the little girls sit on my lap. All the other little kids got on laps too. And 5 more got in. And then there were suddenly 15 people (mostly 6 foot tall Kenyan guys) in the back 3 seats. And I was sandwiched in between them all with a 10 year old on my lap. The other Americans were in the row in front. And still more in the front seat. And then there was the driver with his loud Kenyan rap music blaring. And the boys were all laughing and telling loud jokes in Luo. And the matatu suddenly seemed VERY SMALL.
I have to admit I panicked. I was having some serious claustrophobia ... and was not quite sure I was going to survive the 20 minute matatu ride. Seriously. I think I prayed more in that 20 minute carride than I didn the entire rest of the trip to Kenya. One of the older guys, Tobias, was next to me. I think he saw me freaking out and tried to help a little bit. He was standing in the aisle next to my seat - sort of hovering over me. He tried to lean as far the other way as possible and give me a little more space. It was not more than a few inches of extra space, but I was so grateful. I tried to open my window and get a little air. It was stuck shut. As I held Sandra, I put my forehead to the cold matatu window and tried to breathe deeply. Deep breaths. Slow breaths. The panic subsided a little. I almost had my heart rate back to normal when we went off-road with the matatu. We went off the paved road and onto the dirt road to the retreat center. As the matatu slowly made this transition, it felt like the matatu was tipping over in my direction. In reality, there was probably a 1-2 inch drop off from the paved road to the dirt road. But it felt like we were going over a cliff. The panic came back stronger than ever. But after seconds that felt like hours, we were on the dirt road and on our way. Longest trip of my life.
As we arrived at the retreat center, the doors opened and people piled out of the bus. Fresh air never felt so good on my face. I was so grateful to be back on solid ground. And I swore that I would NEVER get in the back of a matatu again! I will take slow, bumpy tuk tuk drives any day of the week!
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